The Top 100 questions about owning a Z!

[Ghost]

Q. What's the best intake to buy?
A. There is no "best" intake. They all offer features and advantages and all have disadvantages. Some have small proven gains (+5hp), others have questionable gains (+20). Sorry but you have to do the research yourself and decide what meets your budget & expectations. Some of the more popular ones are the Jim Wolf Tech. PopCharger; NISMO CAI, Injen CAI, AEM CAI, K&N Typhoon CAI. A cheap alternative is a high flow air filter like the K&N filter.


Q. I can't get my new rims to fit on the front. There's a little bolt there! What can I do??
A. That little bolt is there so your tire guys don't put your stock rear rims on the front by mistake. To install aftermarket rims, just get a 10mm wrench & unbolt it. Problem fixed!


Q. Can I wax my new car?
A. Yes. The paint is already oven cured at the factory plus it took a month or two from the time it was built until it arrived at the dealer. Wax on!

Q:What type of gas may I fuel up with?
A:The owner manual states that you should use premium gas. However, if your in a remote place without any premium, you may use regular 87 oct... Prolonged usage of regular gas may cause detonation and premature wear.
Note:Any aviation fuel will cause damage in a rather short period. Dont even think about it, unless you like BIG repair bills.

[Ghost]

Q. What air pressure should I put in my tires?
A. The recommended pressure is printed on a sticker on the driver's side door jamb as well as "Technical and consumer information" section of your Owners Manual. That pressure is the cold inflation pressure, checked when the tires are cold or not driven on for at least two hours.

Q: How do I open the hatch without using the remote?
A. There's a button right above the rear licence plate. Feel for it, and press it to open the hatch. The door locks have to be unlocked first though.

Q: How do I open the windows with a key?
A. Insert key into door, turn left and keep it there for 2 seconds.

Q: Which turbo is better?
A. All have their ups and downs. Depending on what your goals are. Daily driving or race only? Half and half? Built motor / stock motor? It would be best to search the FI section more specifically before you decide.

Q: Should I go turbo or supercharger?
A. Depends on what you are looking for. Refer to previous answer.

Q: what exhaust sounds/looks/performs the best?
A. What do you consider "best"? Every car is different. It's like your fingerprints. Even though they all look the same, has the same engines, etc, they all have minor differences. Therefore no one can say what is "best" overall. Look at the sticky thread in the "Intakes/Exhausts" forum and listen to sound clips as well as check out some pictures to help you decide.

Q: What's VDC/TCS?
A. VDC (Vehicle Dynamic Control) and TCS (Traction Control System) are both used to ASSIST in the prevention of loss of control in your car. They would cut throttle appropriately to ASSIST to prevent you from spinning out or losing control. Key word is ASSIST. It won't PREVENT it. It will only ASSIST in preventing minor slippage. It can be shut off by the button to the left of the steering wheel, on the lower part of the dash panel. Keep in mind that the base model 350Z does not come with either options.

Q: new to 6mt...when should I shift up/down?
A. It all depends on yourself and what you are used to. Get used to driving first, and shift around 2500 - 3000rpms until you get used to it. Then explore.

[Ghost]

Q: MT VS AT?
A: It all depends on your personal preffrences! Some like to not worry about shifting in city traffic, and others dont mind. The fact of the matter is that the difference between AT/MT ''speed wise'' is negligable.
The old argument of being able to better control a MT over an AT on the street/track etc... is well wrong. Once a driver understands basic concepts such as throttle control, anything that one does in a MT can be done in an AT.
Long story short, dont let anyone tell you what is best, instead go out there try both, and THEN make your OWN decision.

Q: What is a plenum?
A: A plenum is the cavity that sits between your throttle body and your engine. It can be identified as the large aluminum mass sitting right in the middle of your engine bay. The "lower plenum" which is not normally visible in your engine bay sits below the "upper plenum", which you CAN see. The lower plenum consists of 6 "runners" or tubes that guide the air from your plenum into each cylinder.

Q: What is a plenum spacer?
A: Several companies make a "spacer" which rests between your lower plenum and upper plenum, to increase plenum volume and reduce restriction from within the plenum. For example, Motordyne engineering's 5/16" spacer, or AAM's angled spacer.

Q: What is the difference between MREV, MREV+, MREV2? Which one do I need for my rev-up or 287hp motor?
A:These are all code words for lower plenums. If you have a rev-up motor (your redline from the factory is 7000RPM) then you have a unique lower plenum with shorter runners. If you have the 287hp motor (your redline from the factory is 6600rpm), your car is ALREADY EQUIPPED with the "MREV".

The rev-up motor is well known for having less midrange torque than the 287hp motor, while its overall horsepower rating is higher (300hp).

If you have a rev-up motor, you can choose to swap your lower plenum for either MREV, MREV+, or MREV2 (available from Motordyne engineering).

The MREV is equivalent to the factory lower plenum from the 287hp motor. Installing the MREV in a rev-up motor will increase torque through the midrange but lower peak horsepower.

For an additional fee, the MREV+ and MREV2 are available as well. The MREV+ has a bit of metal shaved off of the two runners at the front of the engine. This reduces restriction inside the plenum and is reported to give you a little bit better horsepower.

The MREV2 is similar to the MREV+, only it has lots of metal from the lower plenum grinded and shaved off. More of this metal grinded off yields less restriction (for a higher price) and more horsepower.

If you are a rev-up owner, you will most likely benefit the most from getting both a 5/16" spacer and the MREV2. If you are a 287hp owner, great gains have been shown from installing only the MREV2 with no spacer.

For more information, search through the Intake Exhaust forum and read several old threads on the subject matter.


Q: What is a reflash?
A: Companies such as Technosquare or AAM (Altered Atmosphere) will reprogram your ECU (engine control unit) to better adapt to mods such as intake, plenum spacer, exhaust, etc. Additionally, a reflash (such as Technosquare) can increase the rev limiter to allow for a higher redline. The stock ECU is well known for, well, sucking. It does not adapt well to mods or optimize air/fuel ratio to give the most power. Some mods can actually lose power with the stock ECU if you do not have the right tune.

Q: I got an intake, exhaust, headers, plenum spacer, and/or other mods. Do I need a tune?
A: First thing's first. You should get your car up on a dyno and get the air/fuel ratio measured along with power. If you're happy with air/fuel ratio, you might not need a tune. However, most people *will* benefit from either a reflash or tuning. The best way to get a tune is to purchase an engine management system. There are several good options. Two popular options are the Greddy Emanage Ultimate or the TurboXS UTEC. The UTEC seems to have the most powerful combination of features, whereas the Emanage Ultimate is more user friendly. For more information on tuning, please browse the Tuning forum and read through old threads. A LOT of information is available if you look.

Q: I want to know which exhaust sounds the best. Does anyone have sound clips of Stillen, Borla, HKS, Injen... etc?
A: First off, sound clips almost never do an exhaust justice. Most people lack good recording equipment, some people even record sound clips using their cell phone. Do not trust any sound clips you hear online. The BEST way to figure out which exhaust sounds the "BEST" is to hear it in person. Go to a local meet and ask nicely for people to drive you around with the windows down. Some people will rev the engine while parked to give you the idea. That is all well and good, but note that exhaust systems sound a little different while UNDER LOAD (driving around).

Q: Okay, but which exhaust system is the LOUDEST, MEANEST sounding exhaust?
A: RSR, Topspeed, or any clones of these systems.

Q: What wheel sizes and offsets do I need?
A: Generally speaking, there are a LOT of different combinations that people are running on their Z or G.

Let's get the basics out of the way first: You need a lug pattern of 5x114.3, width between 8 and 11 inches, and diameter of 17", 18", 19", or 20".

Here are some of the more popular wheel and tire sizes (for good reason) that people put on their Z's. There is no "RIGHT" answer but there is a limit to how big or small you can go.

18" combination:
Front 18" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/40/18
Rear 18" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/40/18
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)

Front 18" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/40/18
Rear 18" x 10.5" , Offset +28 to +35, Tires 285/40/18 or 295/35/18
(lower offset such as +23 in the rear is possible but may require rolling)

19" combination:
Front 19" x 8.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 245/35/19
Rear 19" x 9.5" , Offset +15 to +25, Tires 275/35/19
(lower offset such as +10 in rear is possible but may require rolling)

Front 19" x 9.5" , Offset +25 to +30, Tires 255/35/19 or 265/35/19
Rear 19" x 10.5" , Offset +23 to +32, Tires 285/35/19 or 295/35/19
(lower offset such as +23 or wider tires in the rear is possible but may require rolling)

From this, you get the idea of what is required to go with smaller wheels like 17's, (typically lighter, faster acceleration), or bigger wheels like 20's (bigger, heavier, usually makes you feel slower).

Get to know how to use the following tools and you will be able to figure out for yourself the correct offsets and tire sizes you need:
Tire size calculator (click)
Wheel Offset Calculator

Certain combinations of LOW OFFSET and/or WIDE WHEELS will require what is known as "fender rolling" or "fender cutting".

If you are not familiar with the term "fender rolling", here is a quick but useful lesson you can learn in a couple of minutes: Go outside to wherever your Z is parked. Run your fingers along the inside edge of a REAR fender just above your tires. You will feel a sharp edge and a flap of metal sticking inward towards the car. Now, go up to the FRONT fender, and feel the inside of the fender again. You should notice that the flap of metal has been "rolled" upwards on the front fenders. This is exactly what fender rolling is all about. The rear fenders will need to be rolled to make room for wide wheels or low offsets, or else your tires may rub on the metal when you take hard corners or hit bumps. Any experienced wheel/tire shop should know how to roll a fender. If you go to a shop that does not seem like they know what they're doing, get out of there.

[Ghost]

Q: What are some advantages and disadvantages of different intakes? Should I go for a cold air intake (CAI), a JWT popcharger, or any other suggestions?
A:
Stock intake:

pro: sucks COLD air from outside your engine bay, has low pressure losses, OEM paper filter is very good making this the cleanest intake for your engine

con: once you start flowing a lot more air in general, stock intake box may start to be restrictive.


JWT popcharger:

pro: can suck higher volume of air compared to stock

con: sucks hot air from engine bay and heat shield does not really help all that much in preventing it from sucking hot air. People have reported a problem stalling when travelling at high speeds and putting the car in neutral with this intake.


Long tube CAI such as Nismo, Injen:

pro: sucks colder air, (note...so does stock)

con: More pressure losses due to a longer tube. This is a fact of life folks. More bends and longer tube = more pressure losses. In fact, long tube CAI's have even shown horsepower LOSSES on a dyno.


K&N typhoon (short tube like stock intake / JWT popcharger, but includes a front-mounted scoop):

pro: cone-type filter should suck a higher volume of air compared to stock. attempts to offset JWT popcharger's hot-air syndrome by incorporating a cold air scoop.

con: hard to prove that the scoop is actually effective


HKS Racing Suction

pro: Shorter tube like stock, higher flowing filter

con: People have stated that the install is difficult, price is rather high for what seems like a minimal improvement over JWT popcharger

[Ghost]

Q: Has the tire feathering been fixed?
A: There is no definite answer. Tire feathering can occur on any vehicle with improper toe settings. It is more likely to occur on sports cars. Early 350z years (2003, 2004) had more cases of tire feathering, possibly due to bad alignment specs, slight changes in suspension. In general one should not expect the same long tire life as on normal cars, and one needs to keep an eye on tire wear and possibly re-align or rotate tires when signs of irregular wear can be observed. When lowering the vehicle a lot, one may need to purchase adjustable control arms to be able to bring alignment back within spec. This however is not needed or useful on the stock 350z suspension or the NISMO S Tune suspension.


Q: Can the tires on the 350z be rotated and if how?
A: It depends on your tire size and type. Obviously if you have staggered sizes, you can never rotate between front and back. But you can still rotate left to right. If the tires are directional, left right rotation obviously will require to take the tire of the wheel and mount it back on in reverse direction.
That way inside tread will be outside, which can help irregular tire wear.
If you have assymmetric tires (such as the PS2), than you can rotate left-right without having to take the tire off the wheel. It will not help inside/outside irregular wear, but may help feathering where the feathers have a direction, because after the left-right rotation the assymmetric tire (not directional!) will turn in the reverse direction.

[Ghost]

Q: Should I buy a new Z or wait for a future model?
A: There will always be an improved model coming out a few years after you buy any car. Until there something announced, there is no reason to let speculation prevent you from buying the Z now.

Q: Whats the difference between models? Which one is right for me?

A:This question really depends on what you want to do with the car. If your building a track monster from the get-go, a Base or Enthusiast is probably the way to go. If your looking for a nice touring car that you don't have to do much too, the Touring or the 35th Anniversary Edition in 2005 might be best. Please note this guide only covers coupe options, not roadster.

Abbreviations

TCS - Traction Control System
VDC - Vehicle Dynamics Controller
VTC - Variable Timing Control
MT - Manual Transmission
AT - Automatic Transmission
VLSD - Viscous Limited-Slip Differential


Model Breakdown (2003-2004.5):


Base: 3.5L V6 with 287hp/274 ft-lbs of tq., 17" rims. Only available in 6-speed MT.

Enthusiast: Added Cruise Control, HID headlights, Aluminum pedals, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, VLSD, and TCS. Available in either 6-speed MTo r 5-speed AT.

Performance: Adds VDC , 18" rims (18"x8" all around). Only available with 6-speed MT.

Touring: Adds Leather seats w/ power adjustability, Bose sound system, and optional DVD Navigation. Available in either 6-speed MT or 5-speed AT.

Track: Adds 18" Rays Track Rims (18"x8" front, 18"x8.5" rear, approx. 18.3 lbs per rim), Brembo Big Brake Kit, underbody aero kit w/ rear hatch spoiler. Only available in 6-speed MT.

*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.

There were no major changes until the 2004.5 model, in which the suspension was changes slightly to help alleviate the "tire feathering" problem a bit. I'm not sure the exact change, but there were some small changes in the suspension that seemed to help lessen the cases, though there were some still sporadically appearing.

The next major changes wouldn't come until 2005. Nissan introduced the "Rev-Up" 300hp/260tq variant of the VQ35. It was featured in the 2005 Track and 35th Anniversary models (6-speed MT only). Major changes included VTC on the exhaust cams, improved internals, higher redline, and modified lower plenum. Also, all models recieved a new, redesigned front suspension which appears to have helped to combat the problems with tire feathering.

The 35th Anniversary model that appeared in 2005 was a mesh of the Touring and Track model. It featered the same Brembo Brakes and 300hp motor of the Track model, but all the comfort amenities of the Touring such as leather, Bose sound system, and optional Navigation. It was available in 6-speed MTor 5-speed AT, though the AT recieved the 287hp/274tq engine and did not feature VDC, just TCS. The 35th Anniversary also feature unique 18" 5-spoke rims.

The Z recieved a small redesign on 2006 to both the car itself and to the model lineup. The car recieved a slight facelift with a subtly redesigned front bumper, new Bi-Xenon headlights, and LED tailights. Also, all 6-speed models except for the Track and Grand Touring were equipped with the 18" rims from the 2005 35th Anniversary (Enthusiast AT's get the 17" rims, Touring get the 2003-2005 18" Touring rims). Under the hood, all MT models recieved the 300hp/260tq Rev-Up motors. All AT models recieved the 287hp/274tq motors.

Inside, there were some spots of added aluminum trim, as well as new steering-wheel mounted audo controls in all Enthusiast-up models.


Model Breakdown (2006):


Base:Bi-xenon HID's, 18" rims, 6-speed MT only.

Enthusiast: Adds TCS, VLSD, Cruise Control, Auto-dimming rearview mirror, aluminum pedals, Illuminated audio controls on steering wheel. Availble with MT or AT.

Performance: No longer exists in current lineup.

Touring: Adds VDC (manual only), Bose Audio w/ MP3 playback
capability, leather seats w/ power and heat. Available with MT or AT.

Track: Adds Brembo Braking system, underbody aero package, rear
hatch spoiler, lightweight Rays rims (18"x8.5" Front, 19x9.5" rear). MT only.

Grand Touring: Adds Brembo brakes and Rays Rims from Track model, underbody aero package, Bose sound system, and leather seats. Available with MT or AT.

*Please note all automatic models Enthusiast up only had TCS, no VDC.

Hopefully this brief overview will help you to decide which model is right for you. When your ready to purchase your Z, head over to www.edmunds.com (http://www.edmunds.com/), locate the Invoice price in your area for the model you've chosen, and bargain away! NEVER pay MSRP for a Z! You should be paying at or just above Invoice.

[Ghost]

Q: Should I buy a 350z or an Evo/STi
A: Both cars have pros and cons.

350z Pros: Sexy Styling, Reliability, Enough performance to have fun with, Heritage, Fun car to drive
350z Cons: Not as fast as Evo/STi stock, Performance modding is expensive, Lack of a back seat

Evo/STi Pros: Very fast stock, Mod friendly, AWD, Back Seat
Evo/STi Cons: Ugly, Cheap Interior/Exterior look and feel for a $35k sports car, Not a "true" sports car

Bottom Line: Drive both and decide for yourself. If you want nothing but raw performance, go with the Evo/STi. If you want a great looking and fun true sports car with enough power to control 99% of the road and have a little bit of fun with, go with the 350z.

Q: What speaker sizes fit?
A: The front speakers holes fit a 6.5 inch driver and up to a 1” tweeter in the sail panel. The front speaker depth is relatively shallow, but allow 90% of the speakers on the market to fit. The rear speakers holes fit 6.5 inch drivers as well with plenty of room behind them.


Q: What size of radio can I use in the Z?
A: The stock unit is a double DIN. You can replace it with a double din unit, or a single din with adapter bracket (usually includes a pocket) from metra, scosche or any other kit maker. The stock wiring harness adapter kits can also be purchased from these same sources.


Q: Can I put a subwoofer in the stock location?
A: Yes. Most 10 inch subwoofers will fit in the stock sub location without issue. The factory subwoofer mounting plate is included in all 350Z cars, the only difference is between the models will be the “grilled” cover standard in bose equipped cars and the “blank” cover in all others. The bose grill panel can be ordered separately and used. The stock location is made for a “Free Air” subwoofer design. (As opposed to a sub made for a sealed or ported enclosure). Some have built customer enclosures out of wood or fiberglass that fit this space.

[Ghost]

Q: Do Aerodynamic body pieces really functional? and how do they work?
A: There are some aftermarket bodykits that are functional, however, it highly depends on shape and the location of the aerodynamic piece

Canards: Typically attached to the front bumper, along the sides, these protrusions vary in length and curvature to optimize front end downforce at various speeds. Long, flatter canards are for high-speed, lower drag configuration, for high speed front end stability. In general the more curvature of the canard, the more downforce to the front it can apply, however, they are generally optimal for lower speeds (with road courses that have more turns) as at higher speeds they cause more of a drag penalty than functional.

Front Splitters/Lips: Airflow in front of the nose goes three directions. 1. up and over the hood, 2. creates a stagnation area that forces the air into the nose -> radiator/Intercooler, etc.. 3. underneath the car. Splitters and Lips that protude past the front of the nose (typically by a few inches) allow the airflow that wants to flowunderneath the car, push the lip downward, thus pulling the nose down causing more front end downforce. (thats why you see splitters with those two silver adjustable rods, so that it can attach to the bumper and provide structural stability) There does come a point where a too long of a splitter hinders performance, but generally a couple inches is adequate.

Front diffusers/Flat Undertrays: Always. Always run with your stock undertay. Engine bays are designed to operate it with them and when you seal the under side of the engine, it forces the air thru the radiator and exit near the back of the firewall. Front diffusers are generally trying to create a low air pressure zone under the front of the car (using venturi's theory) in layman's terms: airflow will accelerate faster thru a narrow channel than it will thru a larger void. Most diffusers you will see have a slight curve up. this curve up is where a 'vacuum' effect is generated. Flat undertrays is just to keep the airflow from getting 'stuck' in the various nooks and cranies of the underbody and to allow for a smoother air flow to the back of the car.

Vents on your hood: Depending on the shape of the vent and location, it will suck air out of the engine bay. typically reverse louvered near the front of the hood will assist in sucking air out by the radiator. vents near the back of the hoodwill help alieviate heat from turbos and/or the pelnum. Vents with a slight ridge infront of it will allow the air flow over the hood to go up, sucking the air up and out of the engine bay. Open/flat vents in the hood with no louvers are slightly effective, but at high speeds when the air flow is over the hood, depending on how large of the hole you make, it may be necessary to add a small gurney flap to the leading edge of the hole, just to make the air go up and over the hole to assist the air flow out.

Gurney Flap: a Gurney flap causes the air to seperate on the trailing edge of a surface. typically 1/2" or smaller at a 90degree angle to the surface it's attached to. ie. The trailing edge of a wing. Minimal drag penality, BIG effect on speeding up the airflow behind it.

Wings & Spoilers: an elevated touring wing on a Z does work. But at speeds 60mph and higher. The reason why touring wings are so high off the trunk lid is because it needs to be in the airstream that is not affected by the shape of the car's roof. rear wings provide tremendous downforce to the rear of the car (depending on the angle of attack) and can be very beneficial on the road course where high-speed stability is needed during turns. a trunk lid spoiler, 'spoils' the airflow over the rear hatch and causes it to seperate sooner. Our car is more-or-less the shape of a wing. by making the airflow seperate sooner, it prevents the rear end lifting. But a majority of the trunk lid spoilers out for our Z are mainly for cosmetic purposes. IF you want something that really works, it's time to convert your Z into a Salad bar. Add a gurney flap for more effect. These 3d looking wings with humps in the center and weird sides? is because airflow over the center of the roof is at different over the sides.

Side Skirts: Out of all the body kits i've seen, 90% are cosmetic purposes. however, in general a longer side skirt that is lower to the ground will prevent 'leakage' of air coming from the sides of the car that may disturb the airflow going from the front to the back of the car. the more of an enclosed 'channel' you can make for the airflow underneath the car, the better it is for high speed stability.

Rear Diffusers: Everyone of our Z comes with one.. it's called our Stock exhaust canister. Rear diffusers are similar in effect to the front diffuser, as it uses Venturi Effect to speed the airflow out from under the car. the optimal beginning of the curvature is under the rear axle/differential, but since we have so much hardware there, it's not a practical mounting place and there are too many aftermarket exhausts that get in the way of a universal solution. a gradual 6 degrees of incline is generally the best shape.

Vortex Generator: you may have seen these on the Evo MR and the new 2006+ WRX STI's. These devices actually cause the airflow over the rear hatch to stay ATTACHED longer (as opposed to being spoiled and seperating earlier) so that the airflow under the WING is FASTER, thus causing more of an effect by the rear wing. DO NOT go attaching these vortex generators ontop of our Zs unless you have a tall wing, else you're just making our rear end lift more so that before.

Fender Liners. You might not think that fender liners are effective aerodynamic tools but they are. Airflow over the tires actually go the opposite direction of the spin direction. i.e. the airflow will actually go toward the front of the car when you're driving. you might have seen these little flaps infront of the tires. well thats to allow the airflow to continue downward and limit the effect on the underside airflow. This is also why you might see side fender vents. It allows the majority of the wheel airflow to go out and exit away from the underside. In stock form, our fenderliners allow exits for the air caught in our front bumpers and for some people, air exits for oil/powersteeing coolers stores inside the fender areas.

General idea: Aero devices work mostly at 60+mph. Form always follows function. Stock Z form has Zero Lift, your best aerodynamic configuration...

[Ghost]

Q:What is a good price for the Z I want?
A:No one can answer that for you without a lot of details. For a new Z, go to www.edmunds.com (http://www.edmunds.com/) and search for invoice price based on the exact specs you want on the car. 1-3% above invoice is the general rule of thumb for new car purchases. Always make the lowest offer first and then bargain up from there.

For a used Z, look up value at www.kbb.com (http://www.kbb.com/) and use that as reference.

What if it is a special order?

If your Z will be a special order from Japan, you can get it for invoice if you know how to haggle. The dealer always pays Nissan 2% less than invoice if the car is sold within 30 days of reaching dealership. It is called "Dealer Holdback". For special orders, Nissan dealers pocket all 2% since the car is whisked away as soon as it arrives. Keep that in mind and bargain wisely, you will not be disappointed!

[Ghost]

Q: What Bulb Sizes Fit the Z?
A:(From Sylvania.com)


Quote:

2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With HID (high intensity discharge) headlamps)

Low beam headlamp
HID-D2R

High beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer

Parking light
168

Front turn signal
992 (7440A)

Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)

Tail light
7443

Stop light
7443

High mount stop light
%COM

License plate
168

Back up light
7440

Front sidemarker
168

Rear sidemarker
168

Map light
DE3175

Trunk/Cargo area
168


______________________


2003-2005 NISSAN 350Z (With replaceable halogen capsules)

Low beam headlamp
H7
H7ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H7XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter
H7CB Cool Blue Halogen Upgrade: White Hot; Super Cool; 100% Street Legal
H7LL Long Life Halogen: Lasts two and a half times longer

High beam headlamp
H1-55W
H1ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen
H1XV XtraVision Halogen Upgrade: Up to 20% Brighter

Parking light
168

Front turn signal
992 (7440A)

Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)

Tail light
7443

Stop light
7443

High mount stop light
%COM

License plate
168

Back up light
7440

Front sidemarker
168

Rear sidemarker
168

Map light
DE3175

Trunk/Cargo area
168



_______________________

2006+ NISSAN 350Z

High & low beam headlamp
HID-D2S

Parking light
168
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

Front turn signal
3457ALL
3457AST Silverstar Signal Lighting: Complete the Look: Crisp, Clean, Style

Rear turn signal
992 (7440A)

Tail light
LED

Stop light
LED

High mount stop light
%COM

License plate
2825

Back up light
7440

Rear sidemarker
LED

Trunk/Cargo area
158
168

[Ghost]

Q: What Fluids do I use in the Z?
A:(From the 2004 Tech Manual)

http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7158/zfuilds2ce.jpg

[Ghost]

Q: Do all Z's make a "clunk" or "chatter" sound when disengaging the clutch? Is it normal to hear a whirring or slight grinding noise when the clutch is engaged at idle?
A: Yes, these sounds are totally normal. Furthermore, the Z's transmission is rather noisy. Shifts will seem especially noisy when you are in an enclosed parking lot, tunnel, etc.


Q: I hear a clicking sound sometimes. What is that? Sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car?
A: Beware of a slight metallic clicking sound coming from the rear of the car. It is due to the rear axle not being properly lubricated. If your car has this problem, you will usually hear this clicking sound when (1) in an enclosed space or driving near a hard wall, (2) driving without radio and with the window down (try turning off A/C if you still aren't sure), and (3) starting to move from a halt. The clicking sound is more pronounced while turning, or so it seems.

If you have the clicking, your car is due for a "Technical Service Bulletin" or "TSB" repair for rear axle clicking, which is covered under warranty. Take it to a dealer, and don't leave until they agree to fix it.

Q: Help!! My transmission is grinding from 1 -> 2, 5 -> 6, etc! YES, I'M SURE I PRESSED IN THE CLUTCH ALL THE WAY!
A: Don't worry, you aren't alone... Make sure you know how to replicate the problem, or else they will not fix it.

[Ghost]

Q: Help!!!!!!!!! I got water spots, bird crap, road tar, and/or other nasty stuff on my paint!!! What do I do?
A: Here is what you should do:

Step #0: PREVENTION is key. If you have a good coat of wax (such as Meguiars NXT) or sealant (such as Zaino) on your car, the bird crap/water spots will not harm the paint... AS LONG AS YOU TAKE CARE OF IT "ASAP". Do not allow the crap or waterspots to bake in the sun. This makes it more difficult to deal with the marks that these contaminants will leave behind.

If you have a good layer of wax on the car, fresh bird crap (even if it's dried on) will EASILY come off of the paint using a clean 100% cotton or microfiber rag, and a quick detailer such as Meguiar's Quik Detailing Spray, Zaino Z-6, Z-8.

Step #1: Start by washing the car. You always need a clean surface to work on the paint. Now, you probably noticed that even after washing the car, the water marks or bird crap still has not gone away.

Step #2: Get a "clay bar" (All brands are about the same. try Meguiars or Zaino). Use a quick detailer spray, or diluted car-wash soap spray, as a lubricant. Rub the clay back and forth over the contaminated areas. If the clay is sticking to the paint, you need more lubricant. Keep rubbing until the clay glides almost frictionlessly over the surface.

Step #3: Wash the car again. Dry it. From here you have 2 basic options:

Step #4A: If the spots are still very visible, you should use a very mild abrasive compound, such as Meguiar's ScratchX, Zaino "PC" paint cleaner. Do not use professional products or rotary buffing tools unless you know what you're doing (in which case you have no business reading this).

Using a clean applicator pad, vigorously (using 15-20 lbs of pressure) rub the ScratchX into the paint. Rub until the ScratchX turns translucent. Wipe off the excess with a clean 100% cotton or a microfiber cloth.

Repeat this as many times as necessary. You may notice that the ScratchX is removing swirl marks from the area as well... which may make the area stand out. If you want to do the whole car, go ahead. It will take a while, and you MUST use sufficient pressure, and you should NOT let the product dry on to the car. Be sure to top off the spot with wax.

Step #4B: If the spot is not that noticeable, you can get away with using a good CLEANER WAX on the spot. Cleaners in the wax will get down into the paint and clean out the crap without using abrasives. One such example is Meguiar's ColorX. This product is fantastic. Keep in mind that Meguiar's NXT and Zaino Z-2 or Z-5 do NOT have cleaners, and will NOT remove contaminants deep down in the paint. If you use a cleaner wax on the area, make sure to use sufficient pressure. You need pressure to help the product clean (it doesn't clean by itself!) the crap out of the paint.

Work a thin layer of wax over the affected areas using sufficient pressure, then wait to dry, and buff off.

Step #5: If step #4A or 4B did not help, you need more professional help from rotary or dual/action (porter cable) power tools and professional products. Seek help from meguiarsonline forums, autopia.org, your local detailing shop, etc.

[Ghost]

Q: Is the "California Duster" safe to use on my paint? Will it scratch the paint?
A: Yes. It is safe to use and will not scratch your paint. Make sure to follow the instructions when you buy a new duster. Lay the fibers out on a few sheets of newspaper for a few days, turning to expose new fibers every 12 hours or so. This will help remove excess paraffin from the fibers and will prevent waxy-looking streaks.

The other acceptable way of dusting your car, as long as it is not very dirty, is using clean 100% cotton or microfiber rags and a quick-detailing spray. Quick detailer usually does not look as good as a fresh coat of wax, but it's good for maintaining your shine. It has lubricants in it which prevent the dirt from scratching your paint.

Q: If my car is out of warranty, are "Technical Service Bulletin" (TSB) repairs covered?
A: It is usually at the dealer's option/discretion.

Q: Which rims come standard on which trim 350Z?
A: First, 2006 models:

2006 Base Model: 18" cast rims all around
2006 Enthusiast: 18"
2006 Touring: 18"
2006 Track: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims
2006 Grand Touring: 18" Front and 19" Rear RAYS Lightweight Forged Rims

Now, 2003-2005 models:

2003-2005 Base Model: 17" cast rims all around
2003-2005 Enthusiast: 17"
2003-2005 Performance: 18" cast rims all around (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Touring (Automatic): 17"
2003-2005 Touring (6-spd Manual): 18" (Different than 2006 model rims)
2003-2005 Track: 18" Rays Forged Rims (Different than 2006 model rims)
2005 35th Anniversary Edition: 18" cast rims all around (Same or similar as 2006 model rims)

[Ghost]

Q: What is a normal oil pressure?? My oil pressure is going crazy high!
A: The key here is that it does not get too low. When you first start the car, i.e. a cold start, your oil pressure may be as high as 100 psi. When your oil warms up, the viscosity drops, and the pressure will be lower. Please see the owner's manual for normal oil pressure range.

Rules of thumb:

At COLD idle/on cold starts, your oil pressure should be about 40-90 psi.
At normal operating temperature idle, your oil pressure should be about 15-30 psi. (If your idle has been raised it may read a little higher. If you are running without your A/C it will read a little lower. These are just ballpark numbers.)

Don't redline the car or drive hard until the oil warms up and the oil pressure at idle drops. At high RPM the pressure may go off the scale. That is OK as long as the car is warmed up.

Note: it takes longer for your oil to warm up than it takes for your coolant to warm up. Don't go by the temperature gauge on the dash board to determine if the car is 100% warmed up...

If you think you're having oil pressure issues, first get an oil change and see if the pressure goes to the normal range. Using different viscosities of oil will result in slightly different pressure behavior. The recommended oil for your car is 5W-30 (usual choice, good for winter), 10W-30 (also typical choice, good for summer), and 10W-40 (usually used only for extremely high temperature conditions). If you go too long without an oil change, your oil can start to exhibit viscous breakdown, and your oil pressure may drop below normal.

Oil pressure and oil level are NOT THE SAME. Low pressure does not necessarily mean low oil. But low pressure DOES mean you should probably change the oil.

If the oil change does not solve your pressure problems, there could be a problem with your oil pressure sensor. Damage to this sensor CAN occur if a mechanic is careless underneath your car.

[Ghost]

Q: Help! I was going 50-80+ mph and the car just died when I put it in neutral!
A: This problem is more common to those who have installed a JWT Popcharger, or some other aftermarket intake. In my mind, what's happening is the MAF is getting confused due to you having a closed throttle but it still detects some airflow, due to the air being swirled around in the intake tube while driving at high speeds. This confuses the ECU and it might cut fuel or something, causing the engine to stall.

The best solution is to stop putting your car in neutral at high speeds. Potentially, an ECU reset may be in order and this will help some people. However, it is better to improve driving practices by leaving the car in gear until you're almost at a stop. There is no practical reason that I can think of why you should put your car in neutral at a high speed.

Finally, you may wish to increase your idle RPM. This can be done (on some models) with the tool called "cipher" from AAM (google: altered atmosphere cipher), or some dealers may do it for you with their OBDII tool. Increasing idle slightly may help with those who have stalling issues or don't like the "rough idle" commonly complained about on the 350Z.

Q:Why Fairlady?
A: Fair Lady and later Fairlady - The name given to the first line of sports cars designed and built by Nissan Motors Japan after W.W.II, with the specific intent of being marketed in the USA - 1960.

The name "Fair Lady" was given to the new sports car line by Mr. Katsuji Kawamata, President Of Nissan Motors Japan, after he attended the Broadway Musical "My Fair Lady" while visiting the US in 1958. He felt that the name would invoke an image of beauty for the car - because people would think of the beauty of the music and the leading lady in that Broadway Musical.

This is a common and accepted practice within the Japanese culture for selecting automotive names. It is not a usual cultural method here in the US however - so Nissan more commonly used engine size and model numbers as Model Names for the US market.
Complete Story: http://zhome.com/History/FairladyName.html (http://zhome.com/History/FairladyName.html)

[Ghost]

Q: Will TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Yes, in general test pipes make the car think the catalytic converters are not working properly. You will most likely get a check engine light (although some 2003's have been shown not to get the CEL).

You can do this trick to try to eliminate the CEL. It seems to work for most people. Link here:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194001 (http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194001)

Q: Will RESONATED TEST PIPES give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Same story as non-resonated test pipes.


Q: Will HIGH FLOW CATS give me a check engine light / SES light? What can I do about this?
A: Not if they are working properly. If they give you a CEL (you must confirm that the CEL is due to the cats), call the manufacturer and tell them you MAY have a defective product.


Q: How can I check / confirm what my check engine light / SES light means?
A: Go to autozone, or a typical car parts store. They have OBDII (on board diagnostics II) scanners that can tell you exactly what the light means. It should be free to check the meaning of the light.


Q: How can I erase the CEL after I have fixed the problem?
A: Read here
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm (http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm)

Note, this will not "RESET THE ECU's FUEL MAPS" this will only delete CEL/SES light. IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE, YOUR TIMING IS OFF. THIS WORKS, TRUST ME, YOU CAN DO IT.


Q: How can I FULLY reset the ECU?
A: Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery overnight, before reconnecting, pump the brakes a few times to ensure all capacitors etc. are drained.

FULLY resetting the ECU will also delete CEL lights, just like the "pedal method reset" as shown in the link above.

[Ghost]

Q: Will mods void my warranty?
A: A dealership cannot "void the warranty on the whole car" just because you have a JWT popcharger or aftermarket wheels. If they are trying to deny warranty service, they must prove that the mod caused the problem.

Of course, adding a turbo kit (for example) can put a lot of stress on the engine itself, as well as to the drivetrain. Don't be surprised if the dealer refuses to perform warranty service on a heavily modified car, that's just common sense.

This is all part of the "Magnuson-Moss" Warranty Act, which protects consumers against shady business practice by:
Quote:
The Act makes it easier for purchasers to sue for breach of warranty by making breach of warranty a violation of federal law, and by allowing consumers to recover court costs and reasonable attorneys' fees.


(In short, if they try to void your warranty and your mod could not have caused the problem, sue the bastards...)

More info can be found here
http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/...s/warranty.htm (http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.htm)

THAT SAID, if your mod *did* cause the problem, then it's your problem and you have to deal with it.

[Ghost]

Q: I'm thinking about going Turbo / Supercharged. What setup is the safest and most reliable? What do I need to make my setup safe?
A: First of all, going with F/I is hands down the most extreme modification you can do to your car.

ANYTIME you increase the output of a motor, you put more stress and strain on its internals and parts. This is a FACT of LIFE and there are limits to the metals in your rods, pistons, etc, no matter "how good" or "how safe" your tuning is. It doesn't matter "how safe" your kit is, as (IIRC) every turbo and supercharger kit has, at one time or another, blown a motor.

If you are "going F/I" you need to have a backup plan. First of all, your car can be in the shop for months if you are going for a built motor setup. Installation can and will run several thousands of dollars. Only a handful of talented individuals have installed their own turbo kits, and very few if any people have built their own motor.

Building up your motor with upgraded crank, rods, pistons, headgasket, (there's much more to it, but these are just examples) is one of the first steps to making your setup more reliable and more safe. Not to mention, the stock fuel system is not equipped to deal with high HP numbers.

Other parts that can help are oil coolers and bigger radiators are popular additions, as are oil catch cans, water/methanol injection (to reduce cylinder temps), one step colder spark plugs, HKS DLI II and much much more.

Blown motors DO happen, and generally most people don't get much advanced warning that it's going to happen. This is an unfortunate circumstance of the stock internals and block not being designed to handle high levels of power.

Can you put a F/I kit on a stock motor? Yes. Have people done it, and have their engines survived for a long time? Yes. But some people's motors have blown, and the cause is NOT necessarily a "bad tune."

You should be prepared for the worst if you are boosting your stock motor.

Remember, you can get money for a USEABLE engine block, in a core exchange program. But if you blow a hole through your block, kiss your core refund goodbye.



Question 2: But wait, what if I just run lower boost, with a very conservative tune...will my setup be safe and reliable ??
Answer: Some people have suggested doing this, but HARDLY ANYONE has ever done it. Most if not ALL people who have suggested "running lower boost with a very conservative tune" have chickened out of getting a turbo kit in the first place. Plus, it will most likely not even be worth the money, trouble, and effort. The person who asks this question is not prepared to accept the worst case scenario of a blown motor.

But if you want to do this, go right ahead and show everyone how reliable your setup is.



Q: OK I'm mentally prepared for the worst. I am going to get a built motor, my favorite turbo kit, several parts to enhance performance and safety, and I have tons of money to spend. What now?
A: Break out your checkbook (financing a turbo kit = not a great idea) and start PM'ing or calling engine builders who will usually have most of the parts you will need anyway, so this is a good place to start asking questions if you are SERIOUS. Make sure you know well beforehand who your pro F/I tuner is going to be, and call ahead to make sure they have time to tune your car. They can clue you in as to which engine management systems they like to work with, what has worked for them, and what would work best for your needs.

If you love the 350Z and you have lots of money (Don't be surprised if your project starts approaching over $20,000) and you want more power, this is the way to go.

Just make sure you are within a comfortable limit of legality with your car. For example, california people may wish to stick with vortech or stillen superchargers, which are CARB approved.

[Ghost]

Gauges 101:

Engine Coolant Temperature Gauge - Should be at the middle, facing the left (9 o’clock)

Engine Oil Pressure Gauge - When the engine speed is high, the engine oil pressure is also high. When it is low, the gauge indicates the low pressure.

Engine Volt Meter Gauge - Should be between 11 - 15 volts while the engine is running (Normal Range)

Trip Computer Gauge:

Speed Indicator

The vehicle speed is displayed.

Outside air temperature (ICY)

The outside air temperature is displayed.

Distance to empty (DTE)

The estimation of the distance that can be driven before refueling.

Average fuel consumption and speed

The average fuel consumption since the last reset. The average vehicle speed since the last reset.

Elapse time and trip odometer

The elapse time since the last reset.

Stopwatch

Used as a stopwatch.

Tire pressure indicator (PSI)

Shows the tire pressure (0-63 psi) of all tires.

Up-shift indicator setting (for M/T models)

Set the desired engine speed (RPM) for the up-shift indicator to illuminate.

[Ghost]

Q: How much will my insurance cost? How much are you paying for insurance, I want to compare to see if I'm paying a fair price?

Please don't ask that question. Ever. It is the most useless question that can be asked on this or any other automotive forum. Why? What you, I and anybody else pays is dependent on several factors: who your insurer is, where you live, how old you are, how many accidents/tickets you've had, what kind of discounts you get from your ins. company, how many cars and drivers in your family, etc.

As you can see, unless somebody is in exactly the same socio-economic situation as you are, they won't be paying the same for insurance. The only way to get a decent idea of what you'll pay is to call your current insurance agent or visit their website.


Q: What do you pay monthly on your Z?

Again, don't ask it. It's the second most useless question. How much you pay is related to the cars selling price, how large of a downpayment is applied, how high is the interest rate on the loan, etc.

Again, no two situations will be the same. Once you have an idea of the bottom line cost, check one of the online loan site like Eloan, BankRate, etc.

[Ghost]

Q:I'm thinking about putting my Z on a diet, how much do all these parts weigh?
A:
exterior
stock hatch: 77 lbs
hatch counterweight: 1.5 lbs
rear wiper and motor: 9 lbs
stock hood: 24 lbs
stock fenders: around 7.7 lbs each
headlight: 15 lbs each

interior
rear mat: 6 lbs
sound dampening "pads" in that space behind seats: about 5 lbs
shift knob: about 206 grams
leather heated seats: 50 lbs each
fabric seats: 37 lbs each
spare, jack, and tools: 40 lbs
headunit and speakers: about 7 lbs together
steel plate + bolts for subwoofer: about 5 lbs

suspension
stock sways: front 10.5 lbs and rear 4 lbs
stock spring and shock assembly: 10 lbs each
stock battery: 36 lbs

fluids
full tank of gas: 6.5 lbs x 17 gallons = 110.5 lbs
full tank of washer fluid: 8 lbs

exhaust
plastic intake manifold: 4 lbs
stock headers: 15.4 lbs
rear muffler: 34 lbs
mid pipe: 12 lbs
y-pipe: 16 lbs
catalytic converters: 23 lbs each

wheels

(depending upon air pressure, almost any nissan tire + rim combo will be around 40-60 lbs each)
17" base rims F: 17x7.5 = 23.26 lbs and R: 17x8.0 = 24.140 lbs
18" track rims F: 18x8.0 = 18.1 lbs and R: 18x8.5 = 18.62 lbs
18" perf/touring rims F: 18x8.0 = 27 lbs and R: = 18x8.0 = 27 lbs
18" LMGT rims F: 18x8.5 = 18.3 lbs and R: 18x9.5 = 18.8 lbs
19" LMGT rims F: 19 x 8.5 = and R: 19x9.5 = around 22 lbs
all 20 lug nuts: 2.6 lbs

drivetrain
stock clutch weight: 22.19 lbs
stock flywheel weight: 23 lbs
crank pulley: 6 lbs