droptopman
07-23-2007, 08:02 PM
in the locked thread, the turbo vs NA build came up.
this has been beaten to death in nearly every car forum ever created, but here is the overview
NA (naturally aspirated)
includes:(minimum)
I/H/E
cams
adjustable cam gears
standalone engine management (stock just won't do)
mild porting and polishing
bigger injectors
(real power parts)
upped compression 11:1 to 12:1
lightweight EVERYTHING
blueprinted and balanced everything.
machining to valves...
pros-
instant throttle response
power comes on very differently- its typically linear and redlines of built motors (fully blueprinted) can be insane. sounds amazing. raw- oldschool- you can get the popping and fire out the back.
cons-
lower eventual power goals-
more expensive- a real NA build starts at about 5k... goes up to what you are willing to spend.
FI
includes:
yall know what goes here.
pros- much cheaper than equivalent power on a N/A car
much easier to add more power
cons-
lag. doens't matter if its a turbo or a supercharger- it WILL HAVE MORE LAG THAN AN N/A CAR. with a properly sized turbo and good routing, you can get minimal lag, or with certain types of superchargers. and there are superchargers that do lag worse than a properly setup turbo.
if you are serious about a true NA build, i take my hat off to you.
i will put it this way.
i have a miata.
stock 100 whp.
goal 150 whp.
na build- 4k. serious engine management, lots of tuning, headwork, time and money.
turbo build- if you have a 1.6- $1500 for a greddy kit.
if you have a 1.8- $1500 for a homebrew kit, or about 2200 for a reputable kit with a piggyback controller.
supercharger- 2200 for a JR racing supercharger. full kit.
goal- 200ish whp.
N/A build- will cost you 6k. documented cases. and even then, its a hard goal to reach.
turbo- homebrew kit (for 1.8)- $1500 if you get lucky on ebay parts and have the right year (megasquirt isn't out for my car yet.)
supercharger- 3500. FFS kit. piggyback controler.
200 hp is the upper limit on the miata, whereas forced induction on the stock block, stroked motor, fully built on a turbo is currently 493 hp. turbo will net more hp, but you will lose things. its a give and take relationship. if you can be happy with what you have, NA might be the way to go. if you like to constantly tweak and increase, FI is the way to go, much more headroom to grow.
this has been beaten to death in nearly every car forum ever created, but here is the overview
NA (naturally aspirated)
includes:(minimum)
I/H/E
cams
adjustable cam gears
standalone engine management (stock just won't do)
mild porting and polishing
bigger injectors
(real power parts)
upped compression 11:1 to 12:1
lightweight EVERYTHING
blueprinted and balanced everything.
machining to valves...
pros-
instant throttle response
power comes on very differently- its typically linear and redlines of built motors (fully blueprinted) can be insane. sounds amazing. raw- oldschool- you can get the popping and fire out the back.
cons-
lower eventual power goals-
more expensive- a real NA build starts at about 5k... goes up to what you are willing to spend.
FI
includes:
yall know what goes here.
pros- much cheaper than equivalent power on a N/A car
much easier to add more power
cons-
lag. doens't matter if its a turbo or a supercharger- it WILL HAVE MORE LAG THAN AN N/A CAR. with a properly sized turbo and good routing, you can get minimal lag, or with certain types of superchargers. and there are superchargers that do lag worse than a properly setup turbo.
if you are serious about a true NA build, i take my hat off to you.
i will put it this way.
i have a miata.
stock 100 whp.
goal 150 whp.
na build- 4k. serious engine management, lots of tuning, headwork, time and money.
turbo build- if you have a 1.6- $1500 for a greddy kit.
if you have a 1.8- $1500 for a homebrew kit, or about 2200 for a reputable kit with a piggyback controller.
supercharger- 2200 for a JR racing supercharger. full kit.
goal- 200ish whp.
N/A build- will cost you 6k. documented cases. and even then, its a hard goal to reach.
turbo- homebrew kit (for 1.8)- $1500 if you get lucky on ebay parts and have the right year (megasquirt isn't out for my car yet.)
supercharger- 3500. FFS kit. piggyback controler.
200 hp is the upper limit on the miata, whereas forced induction on the stock block, stroked motor, fully built on a turbo is currently 493 hp. turbo will net more hp, but you will lose things. its a give and take relationship. if you can be happy with what you have, NA might be the way to go. if you like to constantly tweak and increase, FI is the way to go, much more headroom to grow.